DNA X #14 The Green Mountains

Posted on September 18, 2010 by admin

 
Weather -sunny, 68F
Wind- light and variable
Heading west from the Granite State, we cross the Connecticut River, a sinuous boundary that separates Vermont from New Hampshire. Almost a mirror image of each other, these mountainous states are quite different. Vermont probably got its name from the French who called this area les verts monts or the green mountains. Indeed they are green and not rugged like her neighbor to the east. Much of the state is covered in a lush boreal forest that covers rounded mountains that are lower elevation.  This provides wider pastoral valleys where farming has always provided Vermonters with food. Family farms are making a comeback with dairy as the leader – Vermont cheddar cheese is wonderful, but don’t forget the maple syrup!

Our first stop is Woodstock, dubbed the “quintessential New England village”. It is about postcard perfect, established in 1768 it has carefully maintained its historic buildings and small village feel. The center of town has a village green, a local meeting spot for concerts, farmers markets, impromptu shows or just chatting it up with the neighbors. Time slows down here and you do too. We stayed at the Woodstock Inn that is across from the green in the center of town. The recently remodeled rooms and excellent food were a treat. They also have a great golf course and a brand new spa to aid in slowing down the pace. Near-by is Quechee State Park home of Vermont’s deepest gorge, Quechee Gorge which carries the Ottauquechee River 165 feet below the trail along its bank. 13,000 years ago glacial activity formed this natural wonder. Park near the bridge (ignore the tacky tourist shops) and take a hike on the trail. Wandering north we found the picturesque Mad River Valley with the lively Mad River flowing through it. Our stop was in Warren, a small village on the southern end of the valley. Two near-by ski areas keep the place jumping in the winter; Sugarbush and the challenging Mad River Glen offer the downhill skiers a haven but the whole area supports cross country skiing, snowshoeing and dog sledding.

We stayed at the Pitcher Inn, a Relais and Chateaux property. Every room in the inn has been creatively transformed into a unique Vermont theme. Our room is known as The Trout Room and features a tree trunk poster bed, fireplace, private balcony overlooking a stream, trout sculptures and a complete fly-tying workshop. The food and service were excellent.
After a little antiquing we head north to the smallest state capitol in the U.S. The small town of Montpelier is home to the ways and means of the state. A picturesque town sheltered by mountains it has all the makings of a big city – good restaurants and active arts and culture. But Vermont is probably best known for its covered bridges, a whopping 114 in all, built not to be cute but for a typically practical Vermont reason, to protect the structure from the elements. With the greatest concentration of these bridges in the U.S. it’s easy to come across one at some point and each one is named and unique.

Like most states there are famous natural areas, famous people, notorious notables. Vermont has produced presidents like Calvin Coolidge, heart throbs like Rudy Vallee, farm equipment inventers like John Deere and the “Father of Good Roads” Horatio Earle (1855-1935). Earle was an inventor and businessman who moved to Michigan and became that states first state highway commissioner. What is so great about good roads – you ask? It matters to the DNA Xpedition- according to Earle “I often hear now-a-days the automobile instigated good roads, that the automobile is the parent of good roads. Well, the truth is, the bicycle is the father of the good roads movement in this country”. It turns out he was an avid cyclist and got tired of bogging down in muddy wallows and getting launched upon hitting crusty ruts. He promoted the good roads movement and eventually helped to turn carriage roads into auto roads across the U.S. As far as Blackie is concerned he’s a hero but not because she can’t handle wallows and ruts. It also turns out that this movement would be helpful and appreciated by another famous visionary Vermonter who you will meet in the next DNA X installment – stay tuned!-Nelia
Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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DNA X # 13 Mount Washington

Posted on September 10, 2010 by admin

N 4416 / W 71 18
Weather- sunny 72F
Wind, NW 10mph

“One of the brightest gems in the New England weather is the dazzling uncertainty of it.” – Mark Twain

Mount Washington, New Hampshire; elevation 6288 feet. This is the tallest point in the northeastern U.S. The peak sits proudly amongst the other Presidents in this range – Monroe, Jefferson, Adams, Madison and others form a 12-mile long ridgeline of battered summits and alpine habitat in the White Mountains. Actually the local Native Americans had long ago given this famous peak a name – Agiocochook which means Home of the Great Spirit. When Mount Washington got it’s current name George was not yet president but a successful general fighting for our new nation. Later on the other peaks acquired names honoring our chief executives and formed the Presidential Range. This impressive mountain has always attracted attention and demanded respect. A long time ago people began to notice it seemed to have a mind of it’s own. Hiking or riding a horse to the top was popular in the early 1800’s but frequent bad weather was dangerous so intrepid developers decided to build a Road to the Sky to provide a safer means of assent. Construction began on the Carriage Road in 1854 and opened in 1861. Built with hand tools, horses and oxen and old fashioned blasting powder it is an engineering feat. Weaving and winding for eight miles and ascending 4725 feet this road is the oldest man-made tourist attraction in the U.S.

We had seen the cog train rattling up the steep slopes of Mount Washington before; yes they still operate a coal-fired steam engine that shoves a passenger car up, up and up. It’s reminenicent of the childhood story, ‘The Little Engine that Could’ and there’s no turning around if you get cold feet. The first horse and carriage made it to the top on the new road in 1861 and frequently carriage passengers had to get out and load up the carriage with rocks to weigh it down more to prevent being blown off a cliff. The first car to climb to the top was the Stanley Locomobile. It was an open car, no windshield or roof and attained the summit in 1899. My father once told me about how he first climbed Mt. W – in a Model T Ford! We figured that Blackie was a much safer bet for this day and age, OK, yes we are spoiled. But I forgot to mention why any of this matters anyway – it goes back to the weather, and Mount Washington is infamous for having the worst weather on Earth! We had traveled to the top many years ago in our first Blackie – a Discovery. The weather at the bottom of the mountain was 72F and sunny. By the time we got to the top it was sleeting and the wind was blowing 60 knots. (The summit buildings are chained down!)

The road these days is called the Mount Washington Auto Road and when you pull up to the pay station ($31.00 for 2 people) the current weather is posted on a blackboard, frequent erasing occurs. The Mount Washington Observatory, located at the summit, has been monitoring the weather since 1932 and has recorded the highest wind ever observed by man – 231 M.P.H.! There are an average of 237 days of fog, the average daily temperature is 34F and the highest temperature ever recorded is 72F. The mood of the mountain can change at the drop of a hat with calm sunny conditions being swept away in seconds and replaced with hurricane force winds and blinding snow. So as we aimed Blackie up the grade we observed that we could see the summit, it was 72F and the sun was shinning. We knew this was probably a record nice day for this mountain and we crossed our fingers. We noted that just about anyone is allowed to drive on this road and just about any jalopy can get past the guard house – as long as they pay the fee. Even though we were handed a CD and brochure it seemed that the staff paid little attention to the ability or mentality of the drivers. This road is NOT for the feint of heart! We have seen many a white-knuckled husband with petrified wife and kids hanging out the windows as thousand foot drop-offs pass inches away with no guardrail. At one point the road narrows to 1 1/2 dirt lanes edged with gullies and thousands of feet drop-offs with no guardrail – don’t look down! Blackie climbed slowly and steadily, the climbing vehicles have the right of way, (we hope the other drivers remember that).We pass above the tree line, any vegetation up here is blasted by extremes so most plant life is dwarfed and clings to life behind the numerous boulders that carpet the summit. Almost at the top we see the little cog train chugging and creaking up the final grade. We are glad we’re in Blackie and pull over to survey the area. It is a spectacular day with endless views of all the mountains. We take in the sights knowing it could vanish at any moment. Gathering our strength, we descend the serpentine road imagining how anyone could ride it in a wagon, poor horses, or steam up it in a Locomobile or Model T. The little train still does it the old fashioned way, keeping history alive. Any way you get up there, and in whatever weather you encounter, Mount Washington will make you remember it forever.

-Nelia

p.s. After experiencing Mount Washington up close, stay at the historic Omni Mount Washington Resort in Bretton Woods to relive an era gone by and enjoy spectacular views of the Presidential Range.

Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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DNA X #12 The Great North Woods

Posted on September 3, 2010 by admin

N 44 52, 00 /W 71 15, 00

Elevation – 1821 FT
Weather – cool, 68F
Average snowfall- 250 inches

At last we found some cool air on our Discover North America Expedition. We aim Blackie away from coastal Maine to neighboring New Hampshire. This was the first state to declare itself independent of England and that pioneering ethos has continued ever-since. Just north of here is the Canadian province of Quebec, south; Massachusetts; west, Vermont. A little piece of NH touches the Atlantic Ocean, but the state is usually associated with the imposing White Mountains. Called the Granite State it’s easy to see why, the rugged terrain dominates the senses and challenges the mind. Cutting through the mountains at various intervals are the famous “notches” (passes) of the state. Either carved by glaciers or rivers these gaps in the granite have names like Franconia Notch, Crawford Notch and Dixville Notch. We head for Dixville and one of the remaining grand dames of New Hampshire’s old resort hotels; The Balsams. First opened after the civil war, the hotel has changed hands and had numerous renovations, most during the early 20th century. The website looked impressive and the all-inclusive price was attractive. The resort has it’s own ski mountain, 2 golf courses and 15,000 acres of private trails and lakes with guides to show you around. We check in and realize there are no TV – no loss – or air conditioning in the room but it seems cool enough and the room has a fan (small). The room is definitely turn of the last century and even though we are in the “new” wing – circa 1920 – things are vintage but clean. We head out to explore the area; the 18-hole golf course is up the mountain and aptly called the Panorama Golf Course – (complementary to hotel guests). Dixville Notch overlooks the lake in front of the hotel and the gardens are beautiful. We take our time getting to dinner – jackets required after 6pm gentlemen and no jeans – and arrive a few minutes late. We are informed that the dinning room closes in 15 minutes, that’s at 8pm. We are taken to “our” table that will be ours for the duration of the stay, no excuse for getting lost or being late and quickly order from the set menu. In walks one big unhappy family, just arriving from one of those clogged cities to the south. The teenagers look unimpressed and the surly son blurts out “out of the car and into the land of no service” as he fumbles with his cell phone. God forbid if he can’t be texting 24/7, 365. The Balsams is as old school as it gets and even though some things are a little rough around the edges the whole point of going there is to un-plug from the techno world and get outside to smell the flowers and hear the birds sing. It’s a sad fact that the younger generation has been blindsided with technology in an age that needs more people to tune in to the natural world and help protect what’s left of it. After dinner there is “entertainment” so we check out the act. In the theater is a real live Hypnotist- complete with audience participation and no cell phones.

We retire to the room with the windows open and hear the loon calling from the lake below- AC would have drowned out his song after-all. In the night, a squall line rumbled up the valley toward the notch. Acting like a funnel, the notch sucked in the approaching gale and drove the rain side-ways right into our room. As Jay snored, I rushed to the windows to close them – no luck – they are the old types that have counter weights inside the frame (inaccessible) and somehow it would not budge. The only hope of averting a flood and electrocution – the fan was propelling rain across the room – was to close the window shade and hang on! Lightning flashed and thunder roared. In the maelstrom Jay woke up and asked what was I doing wrestling with that window shade? He tried to shut the stuck window, to no avail. He decides to try to close the bathroom window and in the confusion ends up in the closet! I’m sure the chaos woke up some of the resident ghosts as more creaking and tapping continued after the storm departed.
The next day was spectacular. We take a hike and then drive to Colebrook for some shopping. Back at the Balsams we realize why Dixville Notch seemed so familiar. It is the site of the New Hampshire Presidential Primary. Just before midnight the day before the election every registered voter in Dixville arrives at the Balsams Ballot Room for a head count and all must be present. At the stroke of midnight the voters cast their ballots and become the first in the nation to report the results. The Ballot room is open for visits during the day.

The surrounding forests accented with waterfalls are home to large mammals like moose, Black Bear and deer and smaller animals like beaver, porcupine, Red Fox and snow shoe hare. There are birds galore including the once endangered Peregrine Falcon that calls the cliffs above the Balsams home. This pristine wilderness is protected forever for all to enjoy and emulates the phrase the resident humans have given this state – “Live Free or Die”.

-Nelia
Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach, a leading South Florida Land Rover dealership is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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DNA X #11 Down East

Posted on August 30, 2010 by admin
Heading north from The Cod or more precisely “Down East” we prepare to encounter the land of “Mainiacs” (people from the state of Maine). To understand the DNA of the area it is important to study the local language. In order not to be too confused we consult several authoritative manuals on the linguistics of the region. Down East refers to the direction the early settlers sailed from Boston; wind at their backs, sailing downwind and to the east, back to Maine. The term stuck and being the eastern most state, up or down the coast we ignore the GPS and surrender to going down. Since we are considered “flatlanders” (from outta state ah) and “city pukes” (tourists) we try to blend in and avoid an encounter with a “statey” (state trooper). Since Blackie is no “junka” (a car with more rust than yours) we take the “long way round Robin Hoods barn” (not the shortest route) to get “out in th’willie-wacks” (waaaay out). We swing through Kennebunkport, a cute coastal town more famous for housing the President Bush Summer Compound than its past shipbuilding heritage and fishing community. Unfortunately, it is overflowing with the summer city pukes so we continue down to our destination “Bah Hahba” (Bar Harbor). Settled in the 1700’s on Mount Desert Island, Bar Harbor has always attracted those wishing to get away from urban life to be inspired by the natural beauty of this area. In the 1800’s some artists from the Hudson Valley School came here to paint the wild coastline and towering coastal mountains. Returning home they sold their paintings and inspired others to travel to Maine to see for themselves. These early “rusticators” camped out or stayed with local families. They enjoyed sailing when conditions were all “breezed-up” (windy). They hiked near-by Cadillac Mountain, soon to be protected in Acadia National Park. They took their “newts” (children) to the beach and watched the fishermen go “buggin” (lobstering) and then ate the fresh catch. “Ay-yuh” (that’s right, yes) times were good. A devastating fire destroyed most of the structures on the island in 1947 but this did not deter the summer city pukes. The area continues to attract artists, scientists, tourists, and their newts. Where to eat? Sit down at the Quarterdeck overlooking beautiful Frenchman Bay where you can find lobster everywhere, good clams, and fresh fish. Poke around in the numerous shops, take a cruise on a tall ship but don’t forget to drive to the top of Cadillac Mountain in wonderful Acadia National Park to get the 360-degree view of the island.

Down we go to the downest and eastest part of the state passing the dense forests that provide most of the toothpicks to the U.S., past the marshy fields of blueberries that fill 90 percent of our bowls and muffins. The Eastern Most Town is Lubec located on Passamaquoddy Bay across from the Canadian province of New Brunswick. Once known for its scores of herring smokehouses and canneries, its fishing industry now includes salmon farming, buggin, scallops and clams. 20-foot tides pour through the Lubec Narrows and inspired one of the first power generators to use the sea to power their plaster and gristmills. In the fall “tipping” becomes the seasonal industry where families “tip” the evergreen firs to make Christmas wreaths and export them around the country. Across the harbor, a few hundred yards is the island of Campobello, New Brunswick. The people of both towns have always enjoyed a close relationship. Rum running and smuggling cheap British merchandise occupied these border towns in the early years with rum running making a comeback in the 1920’s. The economy slipped and promoting the area as a summer retreat became profitable with President Franklin D Roosevelt and his family as one of the “summah visitahs”. The Roosevelt Campobello Memorial Bridge now spans the gap to connect the two towns. Near by is a must see and hike if you are in the area. West Quoddy Head Lighthouse and West Quoddy State Park cling to the jagged cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The trail along the glacier carved cliffs is “wicked” (very, extremely) spectacular, passing waterfalls and lush pine forests. The fog in Maine is “full of the ole cat” (mischievous) and can appear at any time or disappear just as fast. We lucked out with a clearing on our hike but could see the fog bank looming just offshore. It could get “dahkah than the inside o’a pocket” real fast. No problem, that’s what lighthouses are for!

-Nelia

Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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DNA X #10 Cape Cod

Posted on August 21, 2010 by admin

“East of America, there stands in the open Atlantic the last fragment of an ancient and vanished land. Worn by the breakers and the rains, and disintegrated by the wind, it still stands bold.” Henry Beston; The Outermost House.

Heading northeast out of Newport we aim at Cape Cod, the sandy arm that holds it’s fist to the sea. Named after the once plentiful Codfish, this peninsula shelters mainland Massachusetts from the frequent winter storms called nor’easters. As we approach the Bourne Bridge, one of two bridges that allow access to the Cape, we come to a grinding halt. Oh yes, it is summertime on the Cape and the driving is dicey. It had been a few years since I had visited the Cape in the summer and I guess I forgot – everyone and their aunt who lives in New England comes here in the summer! Traffic jams and hoards of people are the norm. Restaurants have lines out the door, any and all beach access points are full and even if you have the mandated “sticker” there is no guarantee you’ll see the sand. Since the beach is the main activity for most tourists, strategy is key to having fun in the sun. Some folks arrive at sunrise, some shuttle family and friends then ride a bike back to join the fun, some get dropped by helicopter…just kidding.
Hotels are even worse, jacking up rates to scandalous heights and raking it in as fast as possible, at the expense and comfort of the guest. We knew it was risky trying to get a room at the last minute but we somehow found a spot at a posh resort near Chatham. The web site advertised luxury, gourmet food and a “Golf Club”. Upon arrival, after 3 hours in a traffic jam, well after the “check in” time we were informed our room was not ready and that the head of housekeeping was “inspecting” our room to be sure it was perfect. Jay’s face informed them that this would not do so they instantly tried to buy us a drink (to dull our vision?) which we declined (probably a bad plan). After a “tour” of the resort, to kill time, (where was that golf course? No links in sight…) we were escorted to our dark room. The valet made a hasty retreat as we looked down at the filthy carpet and decided we better look around. Fresh blood stains on the pillow, worn out bedspread (don’t get out the black light) and a prevailing breeze of mold or…had Jay marching to the phone while I visited the bathroom. We regrouped to decide what to do, good luck trying to find another hotel as I am sure this was their last room, last place you’d want to stay. Jay decides to inspect the bathroom and discovers the toilet seat had not been cleaned – great I just used it! I instantly appoint him Chief Inspector for any future hotels.
Housekeeping arrives to reclean the toilet, remove sketchy bedding, vacuum hopeless carpet and point out that the mini-bar prices are at cost so live it up! Jay heads to the manager’s office for a tete a tete. After explaining the situation he asks if they allow “pets” since the room smelled like a moldy dog. The manager’s eyes bulged as his jaw hit the floor and he promised us we would be moved to their “best” room tomorrow at no additional fee, oh yes and the rate for the dog suite? More than $600.00! They can’t be serious! We go back to the room and discover our neighbors arguing loudly, there is a 5-inch gap under the connecting door, Jay suggests we might as well invite them in. I hit the shower and look down (bad plan) and the whole floor and under the frame edge in covered in mold! I felt like the Creature of the Black lagoon was getting ready to grab me. We managed to find a spot to eat and drink away from the herds of screaming children (no easy feat) and the food was good. The next day we did move to a great room and there was no mold. There is simply no excuse to have mold in any hotel, it’s easy to clean, if they actually clean that is. As for the “Golf Club”…guests can use another course that’s located in another town 25 minutes away, seems a bit misleading…? If you find the ersatz golf club and hostelry make sure you get the “new” accommodations, away from the Creature’s cabin.

The next day we explored the area. Nearby is Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge set aside to protect migratory birds. You can take a boat over to these barrier islands to observe the birds or hike the trails on the mainland section. We then drove north passing the Cape Cod National Seashore and its beautiful beaches (no access, all full) and along the huge dunes of Truro. We like lighthouses so we found Cape Cod Lighthouse, the oldest in the state and home of the oldest golf course on the Cape. The scenic Highlands Links was built near the cliffs along the ocean in 1892. Just before the end of the Cape the dunes tower over the road and frequently migrate onto it making travel treacherous. Provincetown sits at the end of the peninsula and is where the first pilgrims landed before deciding the lack of water and poor soils were not suitable for settling. Today P-town as it is known is overflowing with tourists in the summer and supports a colorful gay population mixed with commercial fishermen and artists. If you get this far and don’t get overwhelmed by the crowds you can take a whale watch boat not too far out of the harbor to see Humpback and Fin whales feeding nearby. If you’re smart you’ll come in September after the sweaty swarms have left and the weather is the best. You can visit a cranberry bog and see the farmers getting ready to harvest. You can stroll the quaint, historic towns and enjoy the fall foliage. Best of all you can relax and have the beach to yourself and not go broke.

-Nelia

Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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DNA X #9 N41 29’00/ W71 19’00

Posted on August 13, 2010 by admin

Blackie update….

The Discover North America Expedition is well underway and Blackie is holding up just fine. Blackie has now clocked over 40,000 miles since her birth. The mileage breakdown is as follows – 85% highway, 10% city, (we try to avoid them) 5% unimproved road and off road. We change the oil every 3000 miles and so far have had no serious niggles. We expected to replace the brake pads but upon inspection found they still had 50% left- amazing! Fuel burn is around 18 MPG and the 4000-mile old Pirelli Scorpion Asimmetrico “All Season” tires are doing well. We found these tires to handle well in snow, ice and torrents of rain. They are low profile tires really intended for on – road service so if we venture off road we carry a shovel to help out if necessary but watch the terrain carefully to avoid chewing up the wheels or getting stuck. We did add a full sized spare tire since the 08’s didn’t come with one. We feel it is essential equipment for long hauls especially in remote areas.
Blackie handles like a dream and Jay has been known to drive 900 miles at a shot without dozing off! Her super charged engine keeps us ahead of the dangerous tractor – trailers and she hardly notices hilly terrain. Since she is a “Sunshine State Sport” she has to be properly prepared for northern expeditions in the winter. We found out on a frigid foray last winter that the deicer additive, which claimed to make the windshield washer winter- proof, did no such thing. Even the slightest amount of water in the well will result in icing below 20F and destroy your visibility – treacherous! We now travel with 100 proof blue kool-aid. Don’t settle for less!
N41 29’00/ W71 19’00

 
Weather – not as hot, humid
88F wind east 15K

We aim Blackie at the historic yachting enclave of Newport, Rhode Island. Located on Aquidneck Island along the beautiful Narragansett Bay, Newport’s first English settlers arrived in 1639. Other Europeans followed some escaping religious persecution. By the mid 1700’s this bustling, protected harbor and deep-water port became one of the top 5 ports in the US. Simultaneously pirates infested the area and piracy was viewed as a way to boost the local economy and lower unemployment among the seafaring men. Newport became a refuge for pirates and their booty provided untaxed goods to the town. The British took a dim view of this activity and occupied the port to try to regain control of this unruly group. This only inspired the patriot movement and resulted in a bond with French forces that helped the town boot out the Brits. British occupation damaged Newport’s economy and the Industrialization boom bypassed the town. Not all was lost as this set the stage for the development of this now famous summer resort. Wealthy southerners and northerners built summer “cottages” which are now the massive mansions of the rich and famous. Some mansions are open for tours. In the 1930’s, the New York Yacht Club introduced the America’s Cup Race to Newport and held on to it until 1983 when it sailed to Australia. Newport is currently vying to host the upcoming 2013 America’s Cup Challenge, stay tuned.

34thac on livestream.com. Broadcast Live Free

 

We pull up to the demure appearing Forty 1 North hotel. While resembling a clapboard barn it is anything but. The ultra modern, trendy and totally tech interior feels more like it should be in South Beach, Miami. The luxurious room comes with your own iPad, iPod and fully stocked bar (not with the little snorts either). Set on Newport Harbor it’s smack in the middle of the action. There is an outdoor partially covered bar/restaurant on the dock level as well as one on the indoor upper floor. The food was great. For a more historic, local fare stroll along the docks to the Cooke House and go upstairs for a drink overlooking the harbor (ask for Ken). Next-door is the Black Pearl. If you like clam chowder this is your place. The place is thick with history and character. It’s like going back in time. There are plenty of things to do here, shopping, museums, etc but there’s nothing like a cruise around the harbor.
The bay and nearby Atlantic Ocean provide great cruising grounds and as a result today the harbor is a constant hubbub of activity. Boats of every size and shape occupy every milliliter of water. Classic yachts carefully restored to mint condition not only grace the mooring field but are sailed frequently. The famous America’s Cup contenders of the past cruise in and out of the harbor. There seems to be a sailboat race happening every day. You can charter a 12-meter, do a sunset cruise, or just ride one of the water taxis. For $3.00 you can ride the launch across the harbor to see Fort Adams. Just do get out on the water! Wandering around historic downtown reveals a patchwork of carefully restored buildings and is best accomplished on foot. It seems that things turned all right by not getting swept away in the Industrial Revolution, see what you think.
-Nelia

Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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DNA X #8

Posted on August 7, 2010 by admin
N38 47’1 W76 13’20
Weather- Hot
90F, wind E, 10K

The Chesapeake Bay
We leave Assateague Island and it’s remote beauty behind and decide to investigate nearby Ocean City Maryland. I’m not sure if there is a more stark contrast so close together. Just across the inlet we enter a confusion of high-rises, restaurants, amusement parks, mini-golf resorts and droves of people. Every inch of land is covered with concrete. If you want to see how many people are currently trampling the city check out the Boardwalk Cam for an idea. We make a quick about face and head inland to a historic town along the Miles River called Saint Michaels. Established in 1677, this town attracted settlers who developed a thriving shipbuilding industry and grew tobacco. During the war of 1812, St Michaels was attacked by the British and managed to survive the barrage by dimming their lights and hoisting lanterns high into the trees away from town. Earning the title “the town that fooled the British” this quaint village has maintained its unique charm throughout the centuries. We find a wonderful inn to hang our hat; the Inn at Perry Cabin offers great food, service and accommodations within walking distance of town.

There are many shops and boutiques waiting to be explored here but we head over to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. This 18 – acre site has interpretive exhibits of maritime history and culture from Native American life to the present. It is also an active boatyard that has ongoing restorations of classic boats and the local skipjacks, which are the only remaining commercial fishing vessels that use sail power. These boats sail down river to fish in the magnificent Chesapeake Bay. 35 million years ago a cataclysmic impact event blew a massive hole in the earth creating the bay. Two hundred miles long and incorporating the watershed of 6 states, this is the largest estuary in the United States. The submerged crater was not discovered until 1983. The bay’s rich estuarine waters support a myriad of wildlife as well as a wealthy fishing industry.

Native Mood…

Today the Bay is under attack from all directions. Sprawling development, sewage pollution and excess nitrogen and phosphorus from agriculture have resulted in the loss of half of the forested shoreline, 80% of sea grasses, and 98% of the coveted oysters. The Chesapeake Bay Foundation is working with the surrounding states and governments, industry and residents to help Save The Bay. Progress is slow and time is running out.

-Nelia

Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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DNA X # 7 Wild Horses

Posted on July 30, 2010 by admin

Wild Horses

We follow the James River to its mouth and enter the Hampton Roads. Actually it’s not a road but one of the largest natural harbors in the world. More properly it is a roadstead – a protected, enclosed area where a ship can lie at anchor that has an opening to the sea. This feature has attracted all branches of the military, NASA and international shipping interests and the supporting big cities of Norfolk, Newport News, Portsmouth and Virginia Beach. It’s way too busy around here for us so we head to the Chesapeake Bay Bridge – Tunnel to shave off at least 90 miles on the blacktop. Before we know it we are on one of the modern world’s engineering wonders. More than 17 miles long, the bridge takes us over the bay to our left and the Atlantic Ocean to our right. There are two tunnels under the bay and even a restaurant in the middle. We land on Virginia’s eastern shore of the Delmarva Peninsula and head north. The area is dotted with National Wildlife Refuges and parks set aside to protect migrating birds and butterflies.
When I was a child I read a book about a wild horse in Chincoteague, Virginia. (Misty of Chincoteague) The true story had me wondering for years and eventually I heard that there really were wild horses living on the barrier island. On the outer edge of the Delmarva Peninsula is Assateague Island, comprised of the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, Assateague Island National Seashore and the small town of Chincoteague. If you are confused already it gets better. We had made a reservation at a small inn, thinking it would provide a quaint atmosphere within walking distance to town. It was a hot summer day when air conditioning rates as one of the world’s greatest inventions. I locate the innkeeper who demands payment before I can survey the room. (Don’t get sucked in like me) Then we “tour” the inn through a Victorian dinning room – breakfast will be served at 9am… up a 18 inch wide crooked staircase past a “guest room” that had what looked like a lumpy sack stuffed with a few horse hairs thrown on a plywood plank five feet long by three feet wide in a closet. No pillow, sheets, curtains… Captain Ahab’s crew had better digs. Our room was facing the “bay”…translation, the local fish processing plant complete with putrid dumpsters and piles of rotting gear. The checkbook sized AC unit was on full tilt and the room was a cozy 85F. Jay had that look of mutiny and I was quick to join the ranks. We scouted town for a backup bunk and discovered the “highest rated” Hampton Inn in the US for half the price. Once again as we tried to cancel our inn reservation, no one answered the phone, where do they go? When we got the call back they kept the 2 – night fee and laughed all the way to the bank. If you find the Stink-o-sink Inn, stay elsewhere but say hi to Misty.
Now that we have a place to hang our hat we head out to find the famous wild horses. We are a little confused about the logistics of parks, refuges, seashore etc and start our search at the national wildlife refuge. The 14,000-acre Chincoteague NWR was designated in 1943 to provide habitat and protection for migrating birds. The “ponies” had been grazing on the island since the 1700’s, left there by early settlers to avoid fencing and mainland tax costs. We spot a few grazing in a marsh far from the road. After further research we discover that there are two separate herds on the island separated by a fence at the state line. The southern Virginia heard is “owned” by the Chincotegue Volunteer Fire Company who since 1925 has organized a “round up” of the horses every July 4th to help pay for their equipment. Today it is a tourist fiasco. The “saltwater cowboys” (firemen) round up the herd of 150 horses and swim them across the channel to town to sell the foals. The Pony Penning and Carnival entertains 50,000 people but I’m not sure how the horses feel about it.
The truth is the Fire Company is only allowed to graze 150 horses on the refuge land. These horses are in fenced areas and receive medical attention. In contrast the Maryland herd on the northern end of the island are free to roam on 48,000 acres and have no human contact. The park service uses an innovative program where the rangers shoot birth control darts at select females to control the herd size. Each female is allowed to have one offspring resulting in a healthier and more long-lived herd. It was here that we had several close encounters with the horses. In the summer they head to the beach like we do to escape the heat and bugs. They even go swimming on their own. Certain areas of the island are designated for off road travel complete with air compressors to fill up your tires after the sandy trails. However you choose to enjoy the island it is a unique experience. The beach and estuary are pristine and all kinds of wildlife including us are lucky to have this refuge.

-Nelia

Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

Follow the Coyles!

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DNA X #6

Posted on July 23, 2010 by admin

DNA X #6

Weather – hot
Wind – SE 5 steamy knots

Tidewaters

We continue north on the Coastal Highway weaving through the tidewaters of North Carolina and on into Virginia. This is a rich agricultural area producing a variety of crops. It is also a vital flight corridor for migrating birds. Known as the Atlantic Flyway this I95 for birds starts in the Eastern Arctic Islands and continues down the coast to Florida where the path splits off leading to various points south.
Native Mood…We notice some signs as we travel these rural roads. No OLF…No OLF… The signs are home made and scattered along the lush fields of wheat, corn, soybeans and cotton. The closer we get to Virginia the more numerous the signs. Upon investigation I discover OLF means Outlying Landing Field. Apparently the Navy has plans to put in a practice landing field for fighter jets somewhere near these farms and smack in the middle of the Atlantic Flyway. Bird strikes are deadly for birds and pilots, noise and pollution are fatal for real estate values. The five proposed sites straddle the VA and NC border. The Navy in its infinite wisdom must have thrown some darts at a map to come up with these locations. The numerous NO OLF groups from both states are fighting this project which has been underway for several years. Impact studies, meetings and unanswered phone calls go on as the residents get more frustrated. The Navy is in its “deliberative process” which probably means it’s trying to figure out how to come out of this pickle smelling like a rose. Meanwhile the farmers won’t invest capital in their farms and any development is on hold.
Blackie decides she is ready for a boat ride. We head for the Jamestown-Scotland Ferry to shave off a couple of hours on the blacktop. The ride across the James River takes us by the first English colony established in 1607. The historic site of Jamestown grew into a thriving community after several years of battles with the local Native Americans, disease, and starvation. Famous residents included Captain John Smith and Pocahontas. After a tour of the area we head to Williamsburg, Virginia. The living history of Colonial Williamsburg is interesting and well done and there are numerous historic sites in the surrounding area. The Williamsburg Winery is the largest in Virginia and is open for tours and tastings and the wine is good.
The Faux Chateau…
Well, our accommodations await us and we head to another hastily made reservation. The approach takes us through pastoral farms winding through forests and through an archway into the parking lot. So far so good. The web site bragged about some awards and featured an impressive aerial view of the site. Down on the ground it appears we have landed in France. We check in at the podium and pass the inspection of a knight in armor (plastic) which guards the hallway. Our room is large but the bathroom is a three foot wide hall with the sink, shower, etc crammed along the passageway. The large, flimsy armoire is empty and rattles constantly as we walk around. We suddenly realize that everything is a facade – the walls are paper thin, the “antiques” are anything but, the touted “bar” is non functional and the guests might as well all have the same room since we can hear every creak and groan. The dreary stone courtyard is non accessible and even though there is a nice fountain – supposedly from France – it looks more like the firing squad will be out any minute to preform the afternoon execution. See if you can find the Faux Chateau, if you want to stay there bring your ear plugs.
Did You Know…?

Botanical Sassafras was once worth its weight in gold as a medicinal plant. It was an early export of Jamestown and today it is used as a flavoring for root beer.

-Nelia

Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

Follow the Coyles!

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DNA X #5 N31.11.01 W081.21.98

Posted on July 15, 2010 by admin
Weather – steamy, 91FWind E 5mph
N31.11.01 W081.21.98
Continuing on the Coastal Highway we head north along the Georgia coast weaving around the vast salt marshes that nurture a multitude of wildlife. We are heading for the Golden Isles, across the marsh to Georgia’s barrier islands. This has been the winter retreat for wealthy northerners since the 1800’s. Several old resorts mix with the new and still draw a crowd. We pull in to the Jekyll Island Club for a look. This once exclusive club welcomed the big wigs of the day. The roster included Vanderbilt, Pulitzer, J.P. Morgan, and Marshall Field in the original 53 members/investors. The sprawling property also has “cottages” built for the members who needed more space.
The next island is Saint Simon’s Island, flanked by the smaller Little Saint Simons and Sea Island. Frankly it’s sometimes hard to tell where one island ends and another begins. The complicated history of this area includes Native American inhabitants who were “civilized” by Spanish missionaries, battles between the French, Spanish and British, lucrative plantations worked by thousands of African slaves, and German U-boat attacks off the island’s coast. Today this is primarily a resort area.

Our destination is the Cloister on Sea Island. The original hotel, built in 1928, has since been replaced by a huge, five star and completely over the top hotel. As we pull in we are stopped at a gate – this is still a private island. We proceed toward the hotel and are intercepted by a gentleman in a golf cart who escorts us to our reserved parking space. Everyone already knows our name, humm, what else do they know? Our room is gargantuan and the bathroom could sleep 8. The view overlooks the Black river and salt marsh. Birds sing, an Olive tree outside the window dangles its wares and every blade of grass is manicured better than the Queen’s nails. This is a coat and tie only after 6 venue. The ladies sport gold stilettos and designer dresses. We rummage through our bags to come up with something that might pass inspection. After wandering the maze of passageways trying not to sweat and ruin our “look” we find the bar. The upper crust still exists and gathers here in groups that span 3 generations. The food was excellent, the service unbelievable, and the staff couldn’t be nicer. After dinner we hear it’s bingo night. We locate the ballroom and glance through the door. It was like going back in time – everyone, including toddlers had to wear coat and tie to be allowed to play bingo! We settled for an evening stroll. Activities for tomorrow could include hitting the beach, spa or island cruise.

We cruise and come across another fort. Fort Fredrica was the British military headquarters in the 1700’s. This is where the soldiers came from when they attacked Fort Mose in St Augustine (previous blog). The connections continue on our DNA X adventure.

Hoodwink Hotel

We drive north heading for Wilmington NC. , a place we have not been before. Jay has made a reservation at a “luxury” inn. Usually we research a location before descending upon it. As the resident travel agent I was glad to take a break from my duties but as we pull in to the city it is clear things are not as advertised. We check the GPS and confirm we are near to the inn, but the neighborhood looks more like a war zone. The inn’s website sported a horse-drawn carriage, gaslights and romantic ambiance. We pull up and we see what looks like the House on Haunted Hill. There is no parking – on the street if you dare, no carriage, the horse probably ran away. We quickly scan Trip Advisor, something I do in advance especially with these “inns”. Previous guests complain of being locked out at night (not advisable in this neighborhood) cranky innkeepers who don’t allow you to touch anything – I guess you have to sleep levitated above the bed – No wine in the room – you’d need plenty of it to pass out in this place. I call to cancel the reservation, no one answers, how convenient. We scramble to find a hotel for the night. The “inn keeper”, who sounded like Lurch on the Adam’s Family, calls eventually to inform us we get no refund and no sympathy. That was a 600$ plus mistake I recommend you don’t make. See if you can find the haunted inn but don’t stay there – the skeletons in the closet will keep you up at night.

-Nelia

Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

Follow the Coyles!

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