DNA X #24

Posted on December 13, 2010 by dbaker

The fog lifts and the weather forecast predicts fair skies for the next 48 hours. We aim Blackie south hugging the coast to follow the famous California Highway 1, aka the Pacific Coast Highway. This is one of the most scenic drives anywhere and we are thrilled to have good weather to enjoy the views. South of Monterey we come to a toll booth- what, a toll? This is of course the very upscale neighborhood of Pebble Beach, mansions galore and some of the most beautiful golf courses in the world. Well this is one way to keep out the riff-raff, (no motorcycles allowed either) so we pay the $10.00, acquire a map and proceed to follow the road now called The 17 Mile Drive. Is it worth the 10 bucks? If you like beautiful scenery and exquisite estates it is. 100 years ago, this was just a trail where covered wagons ferried tourists from their hotels to the beach. The map has numbered stops with descriptions and there are some “public” facilities along the way. We stop by the iconic Pebble Beach Golf Links, which really is as beautiful as advertised. We stroll through Carmel by the Sea, a small, artsy enclave that has unusual laws like – you have to have a permit to wear high heels – (lawsuit protection from uneven sidewalks). No problem I don’t have any. Dogs are very popular here and are allowed in just about anywhere including the upscale hotels and restaurants. There are plenty of designer shops to loose your cash in and various famous actors/actresses call Carmel home.

We have over 300 miles to go before we sleep so we push on climbing ever higher as the road gets squeezed between the mountains and the sea. We are entering the Big Sur section of the road. This narrow, two-lane snake (no shoulders) may be referred to as a “state of mind” but you better not be anything but alert from now on. Be sure to allow for plenty of time and no ogling at scenic views until you stop in one of the “turn outs”. Be warned that once you get on this road gas stations are few and far between and there is no “exit” for 100 miles. It’s just you weaving along the mountain’s skirt, teetering on the edge of sheer cliffs (minimal guardrails) that plummet down to the crashing surf.  Spectacular? Absolutely! Frightening? Definitely, when a truck appears head-on around one of the thousands of corners. Large vehicles are discouraged from traversing this section but there are a few small settlements along the way that need supplies so – be ready. Arms and tires get quite a workout. At several points we are 1000 feet above the surf with a long view of the coast where we can appreciate the engineering feat of building this road. The coast here can be fogged in and winter storms can promote rockslides and accidents so we count our lucky stars for this beautiful weather! There are a few state parks along the road where you can stretch your legs and relax your eyes. Eventually the road unwinds and we notice a wide beach covered with…? We pull over at Piedras Blancas and discover one of the few remaining elephant seal rookeries in the US. The protected beach is manned by docents from the Friends of the Elephant Seal (fes@elephantseal.org) who answer questions and make sure no one approaches or disturbs these animals that were almost hunted to extinction. Further south, we pass San Simeon and the famous Hearst Castle perched high above the sea (reservations required for a tour).

South of here the terrain takes on a decidedly southern California flavor. Its drier and more rolling landscape is also becoming busier with more traffic at a faster pace. The daylight is fading as we pull into Malibu and catch a classic sunset over the Pacific. Our hotel is in nearby Santa Monica where again we get one of the last rooms. Our main mission here is to see our oldest son and experience the action around Los Angeles. This is the land of Hollywood, movie stars, art and music. The seemingly endless beach borders the heavily developed coast and each area has its own character. From the swanky city of Malibu to the funky fun of Venice, it’s all connected by sand and concrete. Since we have a “local” as a tour guide we get to take a hike in the secluded hills of Topanga, eat at Trestavere, a great Italian restaurant in Santa Monica and tour the Getty Villa in Malibu, home of one of the worlds greatest collections of ancient Greek and Roman art (admission free, reservations required). The highlight of our visit was a personal tour of one of the few analog music studios left in the US. Shangri la Studios has a rich history and for many years has provided a creative workplace for such famous musicians as Eric Clapton, The Band, Crosby, Stills and Nash, Bob Dylan, the Kings of Leon and many more. The Malibu studio continues to produce albums recorded the old fashioned way and if you hear digital recordings next to analog you might wonder why anyone would go digital. In one of its previous lives, Shangri La was home to the 1960’s TV show Mr. Ed and his stall is still there! While you are in the area check out beautiful Zuma Beach, an uncrowded stretch of sand with clean water where surfers work the waves.

Have a drink at the Sunset Restaurant right on the beach or for a great meal head into town for dinner at The Sage Room. This Italian family run restaurant features authentic fare in a cozy setting. Make sure you leave some time for a little California Dreaming while you absorb the sound of the ever-crashing surf. This is as far south as we can go on our Discover North America Expedition, it will be a while before we hear the ocean again. Tomorrow we will change directions – east we go!

-Nelia

Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach, a leading South Florida Land Rover dealership is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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DNA X #23 From the Mountains to the Sea

Posted on November 30, 2010 by admin
                                                          “But no temple made with hands can compare with Yosemite…” John Muir
Autumn is advancing quickly so we set our sights on the Sierra Nevada Mountains and one of our country’s most well known parks. We drive across California’s central valley and head east on Route 120. It is late in the day and clouds start to gather ahead of an approaching storm. We know our daylight is limited and we veer off onto Big Oak Flat Road climbing higher into an ever-narrowing canyon. Suddenly around a curve the massive forms of Half Dome and El Capitan come into view, spotlighted by the fading sun. The view is spectacular and our timing is unbelievably lucky. The canyon gets narrower and eventually leads us into Yosemite Valley where the road ends. Yosemite National Park is a paragon of diversity. At once raw, wild, quiet and untamed it covers a multitude of eco-zones from alpine to desert. The famous granite mountains present polished domes, ‘hanging’ valleys, numerous waterfalls, cirque lakes, giant sequoia groves and over 800 miles of trails through the High Sierra wilderness.

 
Although it is late fall, it is near impossible to find a room for the night anywhere near the park (we thought all the tourists would be gone). Several towns around the park’s perimeter call themselves a “gateway to Yosemite” and most are at least a one-hour drive away – hardly convenient and hotels there were full as well. Somehow we land a room at the park’s historic Ahwahnee Hotel and pay an extortionate rate for the “last room” ($400.00+). Without proper investigation we pull up to the entrance and notice there are no parking places. Every space is full so we unload and get the “bear briefing” – no crumbs of any size are to be left in the car – so Bag O’Snacks, Bag for short, one of our worthy team members will have to room with us. Jay disappears for 30 minutes while I check in. The lobby is overflowing with a hodgepodge of tourists. They can’t all be staying here! Jay finally parks Blackie half a mile away, returns to the mayhem with a scowl and we venture forth to the room. The once upscale and charming lodge was in a stale state of decrepitude. The room was dark (two 15watt bulbs) probably that was preferable and no AC (broken). The “view” overlooked an alley filled with a collection of broken heaters, warped tables, trash, lawn equipment and rotting signs. The carpet was vintage 1959 (last time it was clean). Chief inspector Jay announced a grade of “F” for filth and a “D” for disgusting. Once again we were victims of the “captive audience syndrome”.
 Yes, we were desperate and figured it was our one shot at visiting this jewel of America’s parks. So we head downstairs to the restaurant, full of course, and settle for the last bar seat and whatever food they had left. Since again we can’t find room at the inn (or any inn) we aim Blackie south and west on Route 140 down the grade and back into the vast central valley of California where agriculture is king. Pistachios, apricots, grapes, strawberries, artichokes, almonds and more all flourish here. We climb over Pacheco Pass and down to the coast arriving in Monterey. Frequently shrouded in fog, the city is nestled into a corner of the Monterey Peninsula facing the bay. The city was one of California’s first ports and has a list of other state firsts like; building the first theater, first public school, library and printing press that printed the first newspaper. Perhaps its past history was most remembered for being the inspiration for local resident John Steinbeck’s novels. Cannery Row in particular was the setting for the Depression era story involving people working the sardine fishery and canning factories. The once abundant fishery was destroyed by over fishing and the old canneries are now either vacant or turned into hotels or shops. We stayed at the Monterey Plaza Hotel which is built on the footprint of an old cannery and juts out into the bay. The crashing surf actually shakes the building! A must see is a visit to the world renowned Monterey Bay Aquarium where this history is displayed along with many wonderful marine wildlife exhibits. Other activities to explore are walking around town (lots of shops and good seafood restaurants), walking down to the docks to see the boats and the hundreds of sea lions lounging (ar, arh, arh, arh, 24/7!), walk or bike along the Monterey Bay Coastal Recreation Trail and look for sea otters and harbor seals (no ar, arh here).Stroll down to Fisherman’s Warf past the typical t-shirts etc. stores and hop on a boat to go on a whale watch or go fishing. Scuba divers come from all over the world to dive right off the beach into the amazing Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. If you don’t want to dive you can rent a kayak and paddle around the bay over the kelp forests and look for sea otters and other wildlife. Nearby there are beautiful golf courses, hiking, surfing and yes, even wine tasting. These are just a sample of potential diversions. This is a great area to explore – what are you waiting for?
The light of dawn revealed the reason for the crowds overflowing at the hotel, it is one of only two restaurants in the narrow funnel of Yosemite Valley where the campgrounds, tent camps and RV lots are also overflowing. Stay tuned for the real story inside the National Parks of America. We continue our tour of the park, craning our necks to admire the fabulous waterfalls (5 of the worlds highest are here) the hulking granite cliffs carved by glaciers eons ago and the dense forests and sunlit glades. Many people worked to help preserve this park (established in 1890) but none so diligently as John Muir “the father of the National Park Service”. He inspired and convinced people and presidents to make these lands forever protected for generations to enjoy. He would probably be shocked that over 3.3 million visitors come to Yosemite each year. This density brings with it a rabble of problems none of which help protect the park. What’s in store for the future? Good question.

-Nelia


Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach, a leading South Florida Land Rover dealership is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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DNA X #22 The Birds and The Wine

Posted on November 23, 2010 by admin
California is an amalgam of extremes. It is the most populous state, has the highest point (Mt. Whitney) and the lowest point (Death Valley) in the contiguous US. Its history often showcases the fledgling trends that later become the norm for the rest of the country. From the Gold Rush frenzy to the aerospace and information technology industries the state has always attracted prospectors. Music, fashion and movie stars mix with wine, surfers and spas.
We decide to head 30 miles north of San Francisco into Sonoma County to rendezvous with the scene where one of America’s movie classics was filmed; Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds. The tiny hamlet of Bodega Bay sits along the coast as a cluster of small houses nestled in rather barren hills. As we approach the town remembering and experiencing the curvy road, it is a gloomy, drizzly day with little sign of human activity. A few birds squawked wearily as we drove through town. So far there is no sign of the 1963 masterpiece. Surely there must be some tourist tchotchke for sale here to remember the grisly horror played out on the streets. A quick check of the tiny “souvenir” store revealed a plethora of shanghaied shells from the Philippines and palm tree festooned shot glasses and plastic dinnerware (there are no palm trees here). The dreary shop (no electric lights) was manned by a glee-less gal who glowered when asked about the famous movie. Mystified that the town was not “cashing in” on the potential profits from tourists like us, we went to the Sonoma County Visitors Center. The man in charge rattled off the standard info yarn while pulling out a moth-eaten pamphlet from under the desk ($9.50) that highlighted the movie’s production. He revealed the site of the famous schoolhouse, church, gas station and dock etc. – some here, some destroyed, some fictitious (typical Hollywood). The only hope of reliving the horror was using one’s imagination to conjure up the drama and suspense while looking around this decidedly drowsy fishing village.

Hitchcock apparently used a real story to inspire his film where birds mysteriously attacked the town in the night and were gone in the morning. The soundtrack to the movie featured a cacophony of screeching and flapping punctuated by silence (suspense) but no music. The town revealed this same soundtrack today minus the chaos. Apparently this year (2010) a new version of the film debuted titled; Birdemic: Shock and Terror (budget: $10Gs). This homemade, campy remake was well received by mid-night preview audiences who howled with laughter instead of cringing with fear – much to the serious producer’s dismay! Being lauded as the best worst movie of the year, it is on its way to the cult movie awards. I think we have to see that one.
                                 

Heading away from the shrouded coast we go inland to Sonoma Valley in search of wine country. No trip to the area is complete without going on a “wine tasting” tour. We hang our hats at the Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa. The historic property is centered on a natural hot spring that was used for centuries by Native Americans until a doctor developed it into an inn and spa in 1895. It is “crush” season and the place is packed with wine enthusiasts.  Sonoma Valley is adjacent to larger Napa Valley. We had hoped the smaller valley would be laid back so we could avoid the hype and hoi polloi but it appears we are in the thick of it! We have no reservations for dinner, sold out, (whoops) so the bar menu will do. We try to get the room for an extra night (sorry, we’re oversold…). We quickly contact the concierge to find us a driver for a wine tasting tour – who after 20 phone calls finds someone (this is ‘the crush’ you know…). What are we getting into? The recession must not be here. The next day our reformed drinker driver (a nice lady) takes us around to sample what this region is famous for. We request to see the smaller vineyards, mom & pop operations not the factory farms of the big producers. Along with some local history, she shepherds us to some of the over 300 wineries in the county where we taste red, white and rose vintages. I lost count of how many we saw (wineries and glasses).

Our favorites were the smaller ones where the owners poured the wine and gave you a personal insight. The worst were the hired, snobby sommeliers, usually young ladies, trained to impress with looks and technique not knowledge. By the end of the day (a 5 hour tour) we were mind boggled by the endless wine terminology (and the wine). In an attempt to give you a flavor of the realm of adjectives associated with the industry, here goes…a good wine is attractive, has a good body with soft legs, and is toasty in texture with a dry, peppery nose. The entry is spicy and the finish is supple and buttery. A not so good wine is has a confected entry, is hollow, dirty, gamey, stony and volatile. The finish has smoky after tones of cigar box with a puckery backbone and a ponderous bouquet (sounds like the Hunchback of Notre Dame). Oh, did I mention this is big business? Every winery charged from $5-15.00 to “taste” and there were droves of tasters milling around everywhere. Wine clubs were promoted and discounts applied if you bought a few cases. The average price for a glass of wine is $15.00. The fact is that our DNA X research has discovered that California is not the only state that makes good wine – shhh; they don’t want anyone to know. We sampled great wines made in Washington, Oregon, Colorado, Utah and many others. There was no charge to taste either. We also recalled that in Europe, where wine has been produced for thousands of years, the norm is to simply ask for a glass of red or white wine and the local product arrives unpretentiously (no adjectives needed) and is always excellent (and affordable). So our Sonoma wine tasting expedition led us through some beautiful scenery in a bucolic valley overrun with marauding “tasters” (including us) while the cash registers chimed happily. Although the sun was shining, the wine fog rolled in around 5pm as the winos returned to their lairs. I plan to “take the waters” at the spa tomorrow before we get thrown out on the street, if I can run the gauntlet through the next batch of sommeliers.
-Nelia
Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach, a leading South Florida Land Rover dealership is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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DNA X #21 The Pacific Coast

Posted on November 12, 2010 by admin
We have traveled as far northwest as we can on our DNA Expedition so south we go, leaving the Olympic Peninsula of Washington. The Pacific Coast of the US stretches ahead of us 1500 miles to the Mexican border. We travel on the mostly two-lane road of Highway 101 as it snakes its way along the coast and passes a myriad of wild and scenic habitats. The human encampments vary from outpost logging towns and salty commercial fishing villages to savvy and chic cities. Most of the wild lands are just that – protected by state and federal parks – thank goodness. We cross the great Columbia River into Oregon and most of the way south we are a stones throw from the crashing surf. The road climbs higher and weaves along the cliffs. Make sure you have the gas tank full for this trip. The fuel stops can be far apart. 

Our first stop is along the upper Oregon coast in a little village called Depoe Bay. This is where the fishing scene for the movie One Flew over the Cuckoo’s Nest was filmed. The pocket-sized harbor claims to be the “smallest” in the world, we didn’t measure it but it looks tiny. The treacherous “inlet”- a pencil thin cut through rocks to gain access to the ocean – is where things get dicey. Ocean swells slosh through the cut constantly, threatening to batter any vessel that ventures out or in. They must have had a calm day when the movie crew was filming (unusual). Today the town is best known for its whales. Grey Whales visit here in the warmer months and we saw them thirty feet from the window at a local restaurant. Whale watching boats take you off shore to view them up close, if you want to brave that inlet. Our hotel was a wonderful getaway; the  Whale Cove Inn  is perched high above Whale Cove and yes the whales do come in through a narrow cut and feed in the protected bay. The inn has beautiful suites, each with a private balcony overlooking the cove. The in-house restaurant “Beck” is run by a young couple. The food is creative and delicious. One note to consider is the inn staff checks out at 7pm so after that you are on your own. We were the only guests and had the place to ourselves – it was a little strange. A tour of the cute town revealed something most visitors would not know. We struck up a conversation with a resident shopkeeper who looked like a lifelong biker. We asked about the crime rate, a common question that we expected would confirm our feeling – low or no crime. The man glanced around and told us of a story about another merchant who had a gas station. One day an out-of-towner filled up the gas tank and tried to leave without paying. The oriental merchant did not want to call the police as in his home country the police are corrupt and cause more damage. Within seconds three other “locals” had pulled guns on the freeloaders who paid up fast and got out of town! So remember… the locals “pack heat” in the west.
There are many “pullouts” along Highway 101 where you can safely view the offshore sea stacks (vertical columns of rock), pocket beaches, sea lions basking and frequent lighthouses. The trees get larger as you drive south with a constant bath of fog and rain encouraging growth. Massive Douglas Firs are the first clue we are entering the temperate rainforest. Sitka spruce and western Red Cedar mix with Coastal Redwoods as we enter California. We are heading for Redwood National Park and further on to Humboldt State Park where the Avenue of the Giants (31 miles of road that parallels Hwy. 101) showcases the largest living things on Earth, the giant Redwoods. The oldest redwood ever found was logged out in 1933 – it was 2,200 years old! The average age of these incredible trees is 600 years old. Growing to around 367 feet tall (picture a 35 story skyscraper) and 22 feet wide, they tower over the landscape and anything on it (we felt like Lilliputians). Less than 5% of the old growth coastal redwoods remain today. Groups like Save the Redwoods League have worked for more than 90 years to protect these giants. These coastal trees have cousins’ inland that like higher elevations (Giant Sequoias) and you can visit them in Sequoia National Park.
We stop for a night in redwood country at an inn which was old (decrepit) quaint (rundown) and historic (past its prime). Chief inspector Jay discovered a bathroom with remnants of previous guests scattered around, and enough dust drifting about to warrant a foghorn. Since we were hours from other accommodations escape was not possible. The few other guests looked warily around as they discovered they too were captive. The creaky floors, dingy doors and dim lighting added to the ambiance. This was another inn where the staff checks out at 7pm – were do they go…? The ghosts must start their shift.  The doors slam, “remember your key,” they warn or you’re out on the street (probably a better option) …House on Haunted Hill anyone?
We cleared out early and continued our drive admiring the magnificent redwoods. We leave their realm and come into the hills and valleys of Mendocino County. Vineyards, microbreweries and farmland fill the landscape now. We are heading for one of California’s famous cities, San Francisco. Set on hills overlooking San Francisco Bay, the city is famous for its diverse culture, sourdough bread, cable cars and too many other stellar features to mention. We stayed at an icon of the city, the Fairmont San Francisco that is still the social gathering place of the well to do. With its fascinating history and beautiful architecture, this hotel survived the earthquake and ensuing fires of 1906. Set high upon Nob Hill (or as my San Fran native father called it; “Snob Hill”) views of the entire city and bay unfold before you. Get ready to walk, sometimes straight up or down, as this is a great walking city. Shopping, restaurants, museums, Alcatraz, it’s all here. It’s amazing the giant redwoods with their cathedrals of silence are so close to this bustling metropolis. It’s just another view of the diverse DNA of this country.
-Nelia
Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach, a leading South Florida Land Rover dealership is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport. 

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DNA X #20 The Bitterroots

Posted on November 4, 2010 by admin
Weather: cloudy & windy, 45F
Heading out of western Wyoming, we crossed into Idaho and traveled up the eastern edge of a state best known for its potatoes. To the east we can see the Bitterroot Mountains so named after a small, leafless plant with a fleshy root that provided food for Native Americans. The road weaves through a wide valley avoiding the increasingly ominous range. This is the same route the Lewis and Clark Expedition followed and as the valley narrows we enter Salmon, Idaho. Here the road follows the winding Salmon River up a narrow canyon, The DNA X crew has a road to follow but the Lewis & Clark Exp. ran into the biggest obstacle of their journey – crossing the Bitterroots. They had to find the “K’useyneiskit” – the Nez Perces’ name for the northern trail over the mountains. The weather was deteriorating into winter. Food and supplies were short as they attempted to find a way over this “horrible mountainous desert” (M. Lewis). They had the fortune to get help from friendly Native Americans who knew how to survive crossing the treacherous Bitterroots.
 
Blackie climbs up the weaving pass over the Bitterroots and we enter Montana appreciating the advance of modern road building. We are heading for the small town of Darby where we will stay at the Triple Creek Ranch. Situated on 600 acres with the nearby CB Ranch adding 32,000 acres to explore, this Montana hideaway is unique. We book a cabin at the last minute, this seems to be the way we travel, and lucky for us they had room. It was also one of their “Artist’s Weekends” where well known artists come to conduct a painting workshop. Since I like to paint this was a special treat! The all-inclusive ranch has 23 “cabins”, not to be confused with the shack we found during DNA X #18. These are more like houses; we were ready to move in permanently! The staff is professional, friendly and very accommodating. The ranch manager Bill took us on a wildlife tour of the area where we saw elk, deer, a bald eagle and a variety of migrating birds. Other activities to enjoy include going on a real cattle drive, helicopter tours of Glacier National Park, fly-fishing or trail rides along the Lewis and Clark Trail. What ever you do it’s a special place to explore.
      We leave Montana via the Lolo Pass and go back into Idaho as we drive west. Eastern Washington State opens up before us as a sagebrush plain and feels like eastern Wyoming. Eventually to the west we see the Cascade Mountains appear and then – is that a cloud or…? Looming high above the rest of the scenery is the snow-capped cone of Mount Rainer. Enormous and free of clouds, it towers over the landscape. Over 14,400 feet high this active stratovolcano is considered one of the most dangerous in the world. Covered by 26 major glaciers, its summit has two volcanic craters. This combination of ice and layers of deposits have the potential to produce a catastrophic explosion. Two other famous stratovolcanos, Vesuvius and Krakatoa demonstrated this potential in the past. We cross the Columbia River following I90 heading west and decide to stop for a rest in Seattle. After the solitude of Montana, the hustle and bustle of the most northern city in the contiguous US is a shock. The traffic is horrendous! Still the massive profile of Rainer is visible and a reminder that this city sits on an active fault line. At once modern, corporate, industrial and international this city is surrounded by dense forests (lots of lumbering) and Puget Sound (great seafood). Check out Shuckers Restaurant in the Fairmont Olympic Hotel. Their fresh salmon, steelhead and Dungeness crab dishes are wonderful. We explore the famous Pike Place Market where fresh everything has been sold since 1907. We move on, knowing we are so close to the Pacific Ocean. We go as far west and north as we can and find the coast at last on the Olympic Peninsula. We all stare (Pip too) at the endless horizon and the sense of satisfaction that we made it… we found it! It’s a beautiful sight! We turn and it’s not west anymore…south we go.



-Nelia


Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach, a leading South Florida Land Rover dealership is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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DNA X #19 Jackson Hole

Posted on October 25, 2010 by admin
On our Discover North America Expedition (DNA X) we have seen some incredible scenery. As the road weaves west we encounter the sagebrush covered high plains with herds of pronghorn antelope grazing among cattle. Western Wyoming is still cowboy country and ranches mix with the wild lands. The best way to get around and check the fence line and the cattle is still on horseback. We see cowboys riding the range just like they have for hundreds of years. The arid land seems to go on forever and lulls us into a trance until we begin a gradual ascent into low mountains and enter a dense forest. Up we climb until we reach a narrow pass and begin to descend into a valley. All of a sudden the massive Grand Teton Mountains come into view blocking out the horizon. The sight is breathtaking. The funnel like route gives the sensation of dropping into a hole and early trappers named the valley after fellow trapper David Jackson. Jackson’s Hole has since dropped the “s” and today most of the valley and surrounding mountains are protected in a series of national parks, wildlife refuges and national forests. We pull into the town of Jackson and hitch Blackie to the curb. The feeling of the old west has been preserved here but we spot a Ripley’s Believe It or Not “museum”; a grievous give-away that tourists roam here in great numbers. A variety of accommodations are available and we find a small inn to camp in.
 
   

It’s hard to describe the sensation of viewing the Grand Tetons for the first time. The stunning peaks protrude abruptly from a flat valley floor without the preamble of foothills. French Canadian trappers called the range Les Trois Tetons (the three breasts) highlighting the anatomy of the middle group of mountains – (home and their amoureux were far away). Indeed the pointy peaks are gargantuan and spellbinding, it’s hard to take your eyes off them (Jay’s eyes were permanently attached). If you happen to glance away briefly, perhaps distracted by a herd of bison (they still roam free here), you find yourself quickly looking back at the range to make sure it really isn’t an illusion. Adding to the sorcery is the realization that large mammals are all around in large numbers. Grizzly and black bears, elk, bison, moose, deer, mountain lion, pronghorn antelope, wolf, etc – the list goes on. The rare trumpeter swan and the bald eagle are among the 300 species of birds that live here. The Snake River threads its way through the valley providing wetlands and water for the wildlife.
There are numerous pullouts along the roads in Grand Teton National Park where you can see wildlife and photograph the action. We are photographers and this is shutterbug heaven. Around every corner is another photo-op. Of course this is no secret and I’m not sure but I think we encountered more photographers than wildlife. If you pull over for any reason other cars immediately home in on you assuming you have a “sighting”. I don’t think I have ever seen so much gear assembled to take a photo. The tripod salesman in town must make a fortune! The wildlife will not pose for the cameras so wasting time setting up like Ansel Adams means you missed the shot. Our recommendations…keep your equipment simple and be ready to move fast. This is not a petting zoo and these animals will stampede right at you if they feel uncomfortable. We saw numerous people approaching bison to take a photo. This is just shy of suicide. Remember you are a visitor in their house, act accordingly.
Grand Teton National Park is adjacent to another national treasure Yellowstone National Park. We drive Blackie an hour up the road and enter a thick pine forest. Not far into the park the forest is still blackened by a devastating fire that consumed over one third of the park in the 1980’s. The forest is slowly recovering but many areas are bleak and barren. We head for one of the parks best known features, Old Faithful. As we descend into the steaming geyser basin the earth takes on a primordial tone. In all directions there is geologic activity; bubbling springs, geysers gushing, boiling mud pots, scalding lakes, belching fumaroles – vents that blast deafening roars of steam from deep within the earth. Underneath this display lies the Yellowstone caldera; a massive hotspot which scientists predict will someday explode into a cataclysmic catastrophe. Jay eyeballs the surreal scene and suggests maybe we should keep moving, just in case! It’s an intoxicating blend of beauty and the bizarre we will never forget.
Back in Jackson we tour the town and check out some recommended favorites. The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar is an old time western watering hole complete with saddles for bar stools and western music to drink by. We also check out the Silver Dollar Bar (the whole bar is covered in 2,032 silver dollars) located in the Wort Hotel and have a good meal here enjoying their “rib night” – bring your appetite! For a gourmet meal, go to the Rusty Parrot. This is not a place one would expect to find good seafood but Jay rated the crab cakes some of the best he has eaten anywhere. We definitely need more time here and plan to be back soon. We would love to experience winter in a Grand Teton style. The fabulous scenery and incredible wildlife are true treasures of wild America.

-Nelia
Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach, a leading South Florida Land Rover dealership is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.


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DNA X #18 The Black Hills

Posted on October 16, 2010 by admin

The Black Hills

Weather- sunny, 65F
There are certain American icons that we grow up hearing about. In every history book there is a picture of Mount Rushmore; can you name the presidents? We read about the battle of Wounded Knee, Custer’s Last Stand, Crazy Horse and Sitting Bull. These pieces of our history played out around the Black Hills of South Dakota. This geographic center of the US is named after the Dakota Sioux people. We drive through arid land, high plains covered in sagebrush and few trees. In the distance rise the Black Hills so called by Native Americans because the Ponderosa Pines and granite cliffs look black from a distance. It looks ominous and as we climb up out of the plains the road weaves and winds into the hills. The area is rich in history and preserved lands.
On our way to the town of Custer we pass through Wind Cave National Park where we see a herd of bison grazing. We go by Jewel Cave National Monument, the second largest cave in the US (can you scale over 700 steps?). Black Hills National Forest surrounds the parks. Not far away are Badlands National Park and Devils Tower, our first National Monument (1906) in nearby Wyoming. It’s hard to know where to start so we head to Custer State Park. Without proper planning we arrive in town and notice every hotel is booked. We want to stay in the park at a lodge but alas there is no room at the inn. Management notifies us there is one cabin left near the lodge so we take it. Upon inspection we find a dark, run down shack with a rubble strewn “yard” accented with a “fire pit” under the bedroom window. Blackie’s parking space is twelve inches from the pit. Near by cabins have a similar setup. Chief inspector Jay scowls at the scene and notes that if the place is full (as advertised) there will be numerous campfire sing-alongs and debauchery all night long (no AC so windows open). Most likely he is right so we make a quick getaway and head into town. After checking with three hotels we somehow land the very last room at a Holiday Inn. We inquire as to the multitude of people and get a “are you clueless?” stare. Of course, it’s the annual Buffalo Round-Up! Every year Custer State Park rounds up the herd, which they claim is the “purest” herd left on Earth.  The whole herd is vaccinated and the young ones are sold for breeding or…?. The whole scene reminds us of the round up of the wild horses in Chincoteague (DNA X #7). 20,000 people descend on Custer, stampede into the park at 5am where the rangers close the gates behind the masses until the round up is complete (who’s rounding up who?).
We decide to avoid the crowds and take a beautiful drive up the Needles Highwaythrough dramatic rock formations and single lane tunnels carved into the granite hills. We stop at the Crazy Horse Memorial. This incredible sculpture is massive. The project began in 1948 when Polish sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski and Lakota chief Standing Bear dedicated the mountain to become the world’s largest mountain carving to honor the culture, tradition and living heritage of all Native Americans. Ziolkowski worked on the mountain for years by himself with hand tools and dynamite. He scaled rickety hundred foot ladders hauling his heavy tools and had only the resident mountain goats to keep him company. His family continues the project today with no government funding. The mountain continues to be formed by hand as well as by giant earth moving equipment and precision explosive engineering that removes tons of granite at a time. There is also an excellent museum and art gallery on site with plans for a future university and medical training center. Not far away in Keystone is Mount Rushmore National Monument. The giant faces of Jefferson, Washington, Lincoln and Roosevelt stare down over the nearby plains. There is a nice trail around the base of the sculpture. After seeing the Crazy Horse Memorial it was hard to believe that all four of the president’s faces would fit in the carved face of Crazy Horse!
With the round up complete we get a room at the historic State Game Lodge built in 1921. Two presidents visited the lodge and Coolidge made it the summer White House in 1927. The quaint lodge has great food featuring local game. Herds of big horn sheep and deer and wild turkey wander around the property. The next day we venture to eastern Wyoming to visit the famous Devils Tower National Monument. Its stark profile is visible from miles away.  The debate continues as to how it was formed but most scientists agree it is a remnant of magma from an extinct volcano exposed by erosion of the softer rocks round it. This is a sacred site for many Native Americans and their prayer flags decorate some of the trees around the base. As we approach the monolith we recall the famous Close Encounters movie and feel the enormity of the tower as it rises 1267 feet above the Belle Fourche River. The only aliens we saw were other goggle eyed tourists. There is a great trail around the base of the tower and you can see the changing faces of the rock. There were several rock climbers attempting the summit – are they crazy? – and the whole park is home to a protected town of prairie dogs, Pip was happy! South of the tower we visit Fort Laramie, National Historic Site where the confused saga of western American history played out. Strategically placed near the Black Hills, it was established as a private fur-trading fort in 1834. It evolved into a military base where conflicts between cowboys, emigrants, gold seekers, missionaries, soldiers and Indians forever changed this land. Onward… to western Wyoming.



-Nelia


Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach, a leading South Florida Land Rover dealership is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.






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DNA X #17 The Ocean of Corn

Posted on October 12, 2010 by admin
Called the Great Plains, the prairie or simply the Mid-west this large expanse of land west of the Mississippi River is flat or sometimes rolling slightly. The land is fertile and threaded with rivers. Not so long ago, 40 percent of the US was covered in prairie grasses interspersed with a multitude of wetlands; a rich environment which supported 60 million bison and countless other species of plant and animal. By 1885 there were less than 600 bison left and today only one percent of the prairies remain. We head west through the breadbasket of America where this intensely farmed area has replaced the prairies. I realize as the miles click by we have traveled through 1300 miles of corn. As far as the eye can see there is an ocean of corn and the wetlands are gone. It is a staggering thought; most of all this corn is feed corn, grown to feed cattle. In the old days cattle were grass fed, some still are. In Iowa much of the corn is now grown to fuel the ethanol industry. This corn is a far cry from its ancestors. Now genetically engineered and hybridized it relies heavily on the frequent application of pesticides and herbicides. This year more than twelve billion bushels of corn were harvested. Surely there is enough corn here to feed the world.
We stop for the night in North Platte, Nebraska. Corn weary we walk across the parking lot to the nearest restaurant. As we open the door a chorus of cheers and whoops almost knock us over. The place is packed, there are speakers (blasting) placed every three feet around the room. Everyone is wearing red (good thing Jay has a red jacket on) and glued to the TV monitors that outnumber the wait staff. This is Cornhusker territory and it’s college football night. We try to sneak in and find a seat at the bar. We get a few curious stares and a downright glower from the bartendress as we move one of the blasting speakers away from our face. Beer is king here and not the imported types but the grumpy gal goes to the storeroom and rustles one up for Jay. We order salads and get more stares (this is fried food headquarters) eat as fast as possible and run the gauntlet through the Huskers to get some rest. The next day we make a pilgrimage to Carhenge. Most people have heard of Stonehenge, the famous Druid stone circle in England. Here we have one of America’s Quirky Cairns for sure. Set out on a field in northeast Nebraska – the corn has been cleared away – automobiles are arranged in a circle supposedly in the appropriate proportions to Stonehenge. One visitor re-marked “so what’s the point?” Well point or not, art or not, it’s there to behold or not. Donations are welcome to maintain the “sculpture”. I’m not sure what the Druids would think. We continue west crossing into Colorado. In the distance we see an end to the vast flat plains, the silhouette of the Rocky Mountains at last comes into view. We stop in Boulder, Colorado, home of the University of Colorado and one of the most progressive cities in the US. We pull in to the St. Julien Hotel and Spa for a few nights to visit one of our sons and to give Blackie a well deserved service and day at the spa. We could use some rest too! This is a great city, nestled at the base of the Flatirons; dramatic stone slabs tilted against the front range of the Rockies. There are great restaurants, beautiful parks, art and culture. The St. Julien is located within walking distance of the main shopping areas and not far from the university. It is a football weekend and the city is packed with fans from both teams. This upscale hotel with very efficient staff did a wonderful job with handling the crowds and has a great restaurant not to miss!
 

  Blackie gets her check up at Flatirons Land Rover fifteen minutes up the road. Manager Ed Dobbs and his crew take good care of Blackie, she gets new brakes, a battery, tire rotation & balance, oil change and a good bath. She is ready to go but we give her a couple more days in the garage to rest up. We think about our road trip mentor, Horatio Jackson Nelson and his journey and realize we don’t have a mascot yet. In our hotel room we see a little prairie dog. He seems to need a home and buying him will support the Prairie Dog Coalition in Boulder, a group dedicated to restore and protect these animals.

Over the last century 98% of prairie dogs have been poisoned, shot or bulldozed to the brink of extinction. They live in “towns” with organized social protocols using underground tunnels with specific chambers for sleeping, eating, W.C. etc. They are a “keystone species” providing housing and food for many other animals on the prairie like the burrowing owl and the golden eagle. So our little friend seems perfect, he doesn’t take up too much room, he is a good sentinel (prairie dogs always have someone on look out duty in the town) and seems eager to go. Perhaps Pip is a good name, so he can keep pace with our humor. So we load Blackie and give Pip the front row seat on the dash, his job is to keep a lookout for us; his eyes are better than ours. His sharp shriek will alert us to approaching trouble and his gregarious nature will inspire us to be outgoing in unfamiliar environments. We are ready to explore! 



-Nelia
Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach, a leading South Florida Land Rover dealership is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

 

Quirky Cairn… 

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DNA X #16 Heading West

Posted on October 2, 2010 by admin

Weather – partly cloudy, 60F

For most of the summer we have hugged the east coast of the US on our DNA X adventure. We aim Blackie west, away from the heavily populated metro areas of the north east and into the state of Pennsylvania. This state is known for its steel, chocolate, coal and rich farmland as well as its historic sites. We head for one of the lesser-known historic sites, a collection of eight natural mineral springs now called the Omni Bedford Springs Resort in Bedford, PA. Snuggled in a small valley in the Allegheny Mountains this property has been used for centuries as a retreat to “take the waters” for their healing powers.

Native Americans enjoyed the springs for their curative properties and in the 1700’s shared their knowledge with a doctor who bought the 2200 acres of property around the springs in 1796. He set up tents and invited those willing to make the arduous journey to be cured. Eventually he built a building to house his clientele and the resort continued to grow. Various presidents and other dignitaries have since visited and a few years ago the entire resort was renovated to historic standards with all the modern amenities. We took a hike up the mountain on one of the trails around the resort – there are 23 miles of them! Bedford Springs has one of the country’s oldest golf courses that winds through the narrow valley and the spa is a wonderful retreat still highlighted by the mineral spring water. From there we head out to the Pennsylvania Turnpike (heavy truck traffic) that weaves through the mountains and several tunnels. We passed giant billboards that advertised coal (in green letters) and how it was a clean energy – I think the only thing coal and clean have in common is that they begin with the letter c. We connect with I-80 and drive through Ohio and into Illinois. We have a favorite chain hotel that we have stayed at many times for a night on the road. Hilton Garden Inns have served us well, are usually quite predictable, most have their own restaurant and bar with real plates and silverware and even room service for when you are too tired to stand up. 

Our HGI stop this time was Tinley Park, outside Chicago. It had been a long day of driving so we checked in and went to the restaurant. Liz, the bartender greeted us and as we told her of our journey we found out she had been to many of our planned destinations (on a motorcycle). She gave us lots of ideas and great service. The chef came out and offered us his latest creation, on the house, for us to try. Jacob is 20 years old and has been cooking since he could stand up. His fresh hummus was great as were the salads he made us. Frankly, the service at this HGI was more personal than many four star hotels we have stayed at. Tomorrow is another long day on the road as we head into America’s heartland. 

-Nelia 

Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach, a leading South Florida Land Rover dealership is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.
  

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DNA X #15 The First Cross Country Road Trip

Posted on September 28, 2010 by admin

As we left off in the last DNA X blog we had met Horatio Earle an insightful Vermonter who was dubbed the “Father of Good Roads. He laid the groundwork for another visionary Vermonter to follow. Horatio Jackson Nelson, no relation to the famous British Admiral Horatio Nelson, was a Dr. from Burlington Vermont. In 1903, on a business trip in San Francisco, he met up with some well to do businessmen at the University Club. Hearing their rants about the unreliable “horseless carriage” and how it would only be a passing fancy never able to drive across the country, he made a hasty wager – $50.00 says he would do it, and in less than 3 months. They scoffed at his foolishness but he was already out the door. He had no car but he and his wife had been taking private driving lessons while in San Francisco. He had no maps, no sponsor and no mechanical skill. No one liked these horseless carriages; they were a nuisance, toys for the rich, and a mobile status symbol. They were noisy, polluted the air and created huge dust storms as they recklessly wheeled through towns. They were dangerous to pedestrians and horse and carriage. In fact back in Vermont, the state enacted a “Red Flag Law” which required an adult to walk in front of an automobile holding a red flag to alert other citizens of the approaching menace. Some cities banned cars and in Tennessee you had to give a weeks notice if you planned to drive.

Somehow Nelson saw the future and was willing to bet on it. His driving teacher was mechanic and professional bicycle racer Sewall Crocker who he convinced to help him drive across the country. But they needed a car, a Winton touring car as recommended by Crocker. They located a used one for $3000.00, took out the back seat to make room for equipment and prepped it in less than four days. It had a two cylinder, 20 horsepower engine located under the drivers seat. The chain-drive 2 speed, one reverse gear allowed a top speed of 30mph. The wood body held two leather seats, steering wheel on the right and one light. It had no windshield, no roof, no heater and no spare tire. The list of equipment they decided to add included sleeping bags, rain coats, cooking gear, a block and tackle, guns, fishing rods, two telescopes, tools, goggles, one spare tire and extra tanks to hold gas and oil. There were no gas stations at the time and the Winton’s fuel tank carried 12 gallons “sufficient to run the car about 175 miles over ordinary roads”. Meanwhile no roads could really be called ordinary back then. So they had to keep an eye out for the general stores which sold gas for farm equipment and carry extra gas just in case. Fully loaded, the Winton ended up weighing one and a half tons. Back in those days each car came with a number, pre VIN number. This Winton was number 1684 but Nelson felt that it had a personality of its own and in honor of his home state named it The Vermonter. The car’s instruction manual warned against such anthropomorphism. It read, “Remember that an automobile has no brains. You must do it’s thinking. It is merely a man made machine subject to man’s control. And under thoughtful handling, it will perform all the work for which it was designed”. Indeed if we had such wisdom in today’s auto manuals!

Of course they were not the first adventurers to cross the continent. Lewis and Clark were the first of European descent and made it with the help of Native Americans in two and a half years. In 1840 wagon trains rattled and creaked their way across in 6 months. A few years later you could have a bone-rattling ride in a stagecoach and finally a smoother ride by train began in 1869. So off they went taking the ferry across the harbor to Oakland to begin their journey. They planned a more northern route due to a previous failed attempt by another “motorneer” who tried to cross the desert, got hopelessly bogged down in the sand and gave up. They went north around the deserts but no matter where you go eventually you have to cross the mountains. Many times they had to go up steep trails with no guardrails in reverse to control their speed. They encountered numerous breakdowns and were often helped by blacksmiths who outnumbered doctors in the US at the time. They had to wait for supplies that arrived by train – still the only reliable high-speed transport. The noise of the engine covered up the fact that their cooking equipment and tools were slowly being jettisoned never to be seen again. Nelson even lost his glasses and his coat filled with all his money to pay for the trip. By the time they reached Oregon they had found their third partner in the adventure, a bulldog named Bud who became the mascot for the trip. They attracted attention wherever they went, as most people had never seen a horseless carriage. While they were underway two other car companies sponsored cars and drivers to “get there first”. Eventually Winton got wind of Nelsons plan and offered to sponsor the trip – Nelson declined. The intrepid trio followed the carriage trails that would soon thereafter be turned into the Lincoln Road now called US I 80 which goes coast to coast. Nelson, Crocker and Bud made it across in 63 days and arrived in New York City well short of the bet he made, and never collected. They traveled 5600 miles, getting lost for days at a time. Nelson spent $8000.00 of his own money, used 800 gallons of gas and $15.00 to buy Bud. They were the first to do the trip for pleasure and had they known of all the difficulties probably would have canceled their plans. Nelson drove the Vermont home to Burlington in August where he got arrested for driving more than 6 miles an hour. Eventually he donated the car to the Smithsonian Museum were it can be seen today. Blackie heard about this story and approved of the Vermont’s name and itinerary. She is glad she has more than two gears and two cylinders and can climb a mountain going forward. She’s not sure about a bulldog but maybe a stuffed animal would do as a mascot. We already have too much equipment in her back seat but the seat will stay in. Thanks to the “Father of Good Roads”, Nelson and others there is a series of paved paths that cross the country today. Blackie tuned up her GPS and is now anxious to head west following a similar path. She disagrees that an “automobile has no brains…” she has her own and two on board human brains for back up. The Lincoln Road calls us – “Go West!”

-Nelia

Next Stop? Land Rover Palm Beach is pleased to feature Jay and Nelia Coyle as guest authors for the Land Rover Palm Beach blog this summer. Stay tuned for adventures across North America in their 2008 Range Rover Sport.

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